Finished harvesting and drying your cannabis? Curing is the final step to top-shelf flower.

By breaking down chlorophyll and redistributing moisture, curing helps your buds lock in the flavor and potency that give them their unique effects. Cure your flowers in the wrong conditions, however, and you might lose terpenes and cannabinoids, or worse, your entire harvest to mold.  

  • This cannabis curing guide will teach you all you need to know to master curing, including:  
  • The science behind curing cannabis and why it’s important  
  • The equipment you need to cure cannabis properly
  • The ideal curing conditions
  • How to troubleshoot common cannabis curing problems

What is curing, and why should you cure your cannabis?

Curing cannabis follows the drying process and involves storing dry buds in sealed containers at controlled conditions for at least 2 weeks.

The goal here is threefold:

  • To stabilize the amount of water inside your flower. In commercial markets, regulatory bodies like ASTM specify a Water Activity of 0.55-0.65 for dried cannabis flower.
  • To promote the breakdown of chlorophyll.
  • To preserve volatile terpenes and cannabinoids by controlling temperature and humidity. 

As cannabis cures, moisture redistributes from the center of the flowers to their dry exterior. This ensures that your buds are moist enough to avoid crumbling and degrading, yet dry enough to prevent mold, which is vital for shelf life.

At the same time, enzymes and microbial activity help break down chlorophyll within cannabis as it cures. This removes the hay- or grass-like smell from the flower, instead bringing notes of fruit, fuel, candy, or sweetness to the foreground.  

As chlorophyll breaks down during curing, the overall consumption experience generally becomes smoother (un- or improperly cured flower can be notoriously harsh on the throat).  

Finally, by dialing in the perfect temperatures and humidity during curing, you’re able to preserve volatile terpenes that degrade quickly in the wrong conditions.

Equipment checklist – What you need to cure cannabis

  • Large, wide-mouth mason jars
  • Multiple digital thermohydrometers
  • Two-way humidity control packs
  • A dark, cool storage environment

Ideal conditions for curing cannabis: Dialing in the perfect temperature and humidity

Cannabis should be cured in complete darkness at 15-20°C (60-68°F) and 58-62% RH (Relative Humidity).  

Higher temperatures increase the risk of oxidizing terpenes and cannabinoids, stripping the nose and potency from your flower. Meanwhile, high humidity increases the risk of mold (particularly Aspergillus and Botrytis), which can render an entire batch of cannabis completely useless.  

Low humidity (below 58%), on the other hand, causes brittle trichomes that easily separate from the flower. Finally, darkness is important when curing cannabis because UV rapidly destroys cannabinoids and terpenes (even faster than heat or oxygen). Studies show, for example, that light exposure is the greatest cause of THC loss in cannabis.

How to cure cannabis in 4 steps

1. Buck, trim, and jar

Remove your buds from any branches (“bucking”) and trim them if you haven’t done so already. Learn more about the benefits of wet vs. dry trimming here.  

Do not overpack your containers. Fill them only to 75% capacity. Overpacking compresses the flowers, traps moisture and heat, and doesn’t provide enough space for gas exchange – ultimately increasing the risk of mold.  

2. The 24-hour stabilization check

Place thermohydrometers inside your curing containers and seal them. Place them in your curing space and wait 24 hours.  

Moisture will begin redistributing throughout the flowers, affecting the humidity and temperature inside your containers. After 24 hours, check your thermohydrometers and:  

  • If RH is above 70%: Your buds are too wet. Remove and dry them in a drying rack for 1-2 days, then return them to their jars and repeat the stabilization check. 
  • If RH is below 55%: Your buds are too dry. Add a 62% humidity pack into the containers to restore the moisture in your flowers.  
  • If the RH in your jars is within 58-62%, you’re in the sweet spot and ready to proceed.
     

3. The burping phase (weeks 1 and 2)

During the first 2 weeks of curing, you need to open (“burp”) your containers to promote gas exchange within them. To do this, remove the lids from your jars, shake them gently to move around the flower, and let them sit open for 10 minutes.

Burp your curing jars daily until their internal RH stabilizes within the ideal 58-62% range. If the RH in your containers is high but your local environment is dry, burp them twice daily for 20-30 minutes to aggressively lower moisture.  

If your local environment is humid, on the other hand, use humidity packs to stabilize the conditions in your containers and burp frequently but for short periods of time.  

4. The long-term seal  

After diligently burping your jars for 1-2 weeks, the RH in your containers should stabilize within the 58-62% range. From here, you can burp your jars less frequently (once every 3 days) for a further 1-2 weeks to continue promoting gas exchange.  

By week 4 of curing, the RH in your jars should be stable, and your buds should have lost sufficient chlorophyll to be ready for use. From here on out, your goal should shift to long-term stabilization and the preservation of your flower’s aromas, flavors, and potency.

To do this, stop burping your jars from week 4 onwards. Place a humidity pack inside, seal, and store your containers in a cool and dark environment at roughly 15°C–20°C. Then, read our in-depth guide to storing cannabis to learn how to preserve your flower for months – or even a year. 

Curing cannabis in Microclimate Bags

Microclimate bags are specialized plastic bags designed specifically for curing and storing cannabis. Many growers prefer them over mason jars because they simplify the curing process; however, they are more expensive and not indefinitely reusable like glass jars.  

These bags use semi-permeable polymer layers that help block UV, stabilize the RH around your flower, and allow for gas exchange with little or no burping.  

The plastic in these bags is made up of individual layers with specific permeability rates that do not produce static electricity (which can affect trichomes and overall quality). These layers allow for a slow, yet steady exchange of gas inside the bag – just enough to remove the moisture and CO2 produced from curing without allowing too much oxygen in at once, which would oxidize your flower’s terpenes and cannabinoids.  

By protecting against oxygen and UV, helping stabilize temperature and humidity, and allowing controlled gas exchange, microclimate bags offer a “set and forget” approach to curing that many growers prefer, especially for larger harvests.

Can you cure cannabis in turkey bags?

Yes, curing cannabis in turkey bags isn’t just possible, it’s long been a favored method by home growers needing to cure large batches of cannabis at once. Unfortunately, it is not as effective as curing cannabis in mason jars or microclimate bags.  

Turkey bags (also called oven bags in some regions) are made of heat-resistant nylon. They can create an effective seal around your cannabis just like mason jars, but also need to be burped regularly – which is where their limitations start.  

Nylon creates a triboelectric charge (i.e., static) and serves as an excellent electrical insulator. Unfortunately, that’s bad news when curing cannabis. When you handle turkey bags (to burp them, for example), the charge created from the buds rubbing against the dry nylon bags creates significant static electricity that builds rather than dissipates.  

Over time, this charge can strip trichomes from your flower, reducing aroma, flavor, and potency. 

Comparing curing methods
 

 MICROCLIMATE BAGSMASON JARSTURKEY BAGS
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTIONSemipermeable multi-layer polymer that regulates gas exchange while protecting against UV and the environment.The glass jar and lid create a hermetic seal that protects against the environment. Stained brown or dark green jars offer some protection from UV, but gas exchange isn’t possible without manually burping the jars.Heat-resistant nylon bags protect against heat and moisture but do not provide any UV protection. Burping is necessary to promote gas exchange inside the bags.
TRICHOME PROTECTIONInner layer prevents static charge buildup and protects trichomes.Glass does not create static, meaning trichomes stay protected.High static. Nylon creates a triboelectric charge that can strip trichomes from the flower, reducing its potency.
POTENCY AND TERPENE RETENTIONHigh.  
Microclimate bags are purpose-built for curing and storing cannabis, protecting against trichome loss and minimizing oxidation by eliminating the need for burping.		High.  
Mason jars offer good protection from the environment and static. While they require manual burping, which produces some oxidation, they still create an excellent cure.		Medium.  
While turkey bags protect buds from the environment, the static they produce can destroy trichomes and greatly diminish the potency of your flower.
SCALABILITYHigh.  
Bags come in 1/8 ounce to 10-pound sizes.		Medium.  
Jar sizes vary from 8-64 oz. The largest hold roughly 6 ounces, depending on the size and density of the flower.		High.  
Turkey bags have been popular among home growers in the past because the largest bags can easily fit up to 5lbs of flower.

Finished curing your bud? Check out our guide to storing cannabis to learn how to preserve the flavor, aroma, and potency of your flower long-term.

Common cannabis curing problems and other curing FAQs

A hay-like smell in dry or cured cannabis is usually due to a high concentration of chlorophyll. Chlorophyll needs time to break down and may persist in cannabis that is dried too quickly or under-cured. Learn how to dry cannabis properly here.

An ammonia-like smell in curing cannabis is a critical red flag and indicates the presence of anaerobic bacteria. In short, your cannabis is likely too wet and starting to rot. Discard it immediately and check the rest of your stash.

Curing in microclimate bags is one of the simplest ways to consistently cure cannabis. Mason jars are a close second and have long been a standard among home growers. 

Cannabis is best cured at 15-20°C (60-68°F) and 58-62% RH. These conditions preserve terpenes and cannabinoids while preventing mold.

Cannabis should be cured for at least 2-4 weeks. It’s during this time that you’ll notice the most significant improvements in flavor and smoothness. Some consumers, however, prefer flowers that are cured for longer (6 weeks or more).  

Properly cured cannabis should smell rich in terpenes. A hay-like smell is a sign of cannabis that needs to be cured for longer or has been dried too quickly. Well-cured flowers should feel dry yet spongy, not crumbly. When used, it should be full of flavor and smooth on the throat. Harsh cannabis with a grassy taste is likely under-cured.  

Burp your jars daily during the first 2 weeks of curing for 5-10 minutes, depending on your local climate. Place thermohydrometers inside your jars and, once the RH settles at 58-62%, burp them every 3 days for another 2 weeks.

No. Cannabis plants stop synthesizing cannabinoids and terpenes once they are harvested. However, post-harvest processes like drying and curing are associated with ongoing chemical changes that can affect the final cannabinoid profile over time.

Water curing is a niche post-harvest technique where cannabis is submerged in water for several days to remove water-soluble compounds. Some growers use it to reduce harshness, but it can also strip aroma and flavor, so it’s far from a mainstream curing method.